Archive for the ‘holidays’ Category


Posted: January 6, 2010 in holidays, me

How was the Christmas?

The weather’s fierce hah?

Jesus, these runners are shite in the snow and ice.

More importantly though, did you have that moment during Christmas where everyone else was in the other room; there’s a gentle murmur of conversation seeping under the door and you were sat in front of the fire with a massive gin & tonic in one of those heavy-based tumblers usually reserved for whiskey when featured in an episode of Columbo where he is chatting to the suspect in their apartment and they offer him a drink (which he declines) and they have one for themselves?

Have you seen the Columbo with Johnny Cash in it?

In that single moment, you forgot any distant problems you had. You were alone but not alone at all. You were drunk but not really that drunk. If you had to interact with shop-keepers or publicans you’d be fucked but you just feel like you’ve a warm glow to your pasty skin and could compete at a mediocre level in a game of Scrabble.

Trivial Pursuit might involve saying things like ‘Burkina Faso’ or ‘photosynthesis’ so best avoid that.

There’s a few days left, you’ve gotten books you like, you reckon you did a good job getting presents everyone else liked and you are not obliged to go anywhere or do anything you don’t want to do.

It’s snowing outside.

And now you’re singing that Martine McCutcheon ‘Perfect Moment’ song in your woozy mind.

It was going well until that, eh?

Things started strangely.
As I settled into my seat (as best a 6′ 1″ manchild can ‘settle’ into an airline seat), something wasn’t quite right.
A quick browse of the food and drink laminate showed sandwiches for 4 euro, bottled water for 1 euro and beer for 1.50…my eyes seemed to lack a certain burning sensation…a distinct lack of sensory-overload thanks to relentless blue-and-yellow plastic hideousness and advertisements for ‘baggies’ of vodka and rum.
“That air steward-person doesn’t look like a Transylvanian post-op transsexual”, I thought to myself. “And I can still feel my legs below the knees.”
I was on a Tunisian airline, you see, but Ryanair was etched into my mind’s eye.
We were on the way to Yasmine Hammamet, a Tunisian coastal resort in its infancy. The idea of a resort holiday brought up images of drunken 18-year old Thomas Cook reps vomiting in each other’s handbags whilst having brief, unprotected sex on the beach with swarthy Ahmed, the lifeguard/fruit salesman/salamander vendor.
Luckily I had left my handbag at home.
The girlf and I really needed a break and a holiday of poolside boozing and beach side lolling was just the ticket.
The Diar Lemdina hotel offered the perfect deal: the room was a two-storey job with 3 bathrooms and two bedrooms, all of which I used in rotation and never limiting myself to their specific function.
The pool was a long 10-second stumble from the room’s door and the period between said door and falling headfirst into the pool, when I was absolutely beerless, was a nightmare.
Luckily, there was always a drinks-delivery youth waiting in the wings to take care of me, almost in that Remains Of The Day, Anthony Hopkins way.
I was Emma Thompson and little Mohammed was my silent protector and provider without ever really admitting it to me.
The first few days were a bit of a culture shock with the haggling nature of the nearby market, the Medina – I spent a half hour negotiating the price of a magic carpet with one tradesman only to discover it was a rug with little-to-no magic capabilities.
With the Medina right next door to the hotel, we were through it every night, dodging Arabic beckoning and cries of ‘Cheaper than Asda’ or ‘Have a butchers’ but it was something for which you really needed to be in a mentally strong state to cope and if you have never experienced this kind of thing, you are hereby warned.
The routine quickly became: get up, hit the pool, have lunch, have a beer, hit the beach, have beers, go on a jet ski, avoid paying 45 Dinar for 3 pieces of fruit, avoid buying a turtle/salamander/frog, have dinner and have beers in the fading sun.
Then we booked a two-day Sahara trip.
My Irish skin said ‘no’ but my fingers reached for the cash anyway and on the Thursday morning at 6am, having spent 4 days living the lives of particularly complainy lizards with excellent communication skills and Dunnes flip-flops, we packed off to the desert.
It took in many aspects including a gripping 4×4 trip to the Atlas Mountains, a horse-and-cart journey to a fruit plantation in the middle of nowhere, an oasis, camel-riding in the Sahara, nearly catching the sunrise in the desert, salt-mines and the Troglodyte caves where all the Star Wars Tatooine scenes were shot.
It was truly wonderful, one of the more weird parts of the trip being the visit to a Southern Tunisian couple, in their respective 70s and 80s, who actually lived in one of the cave houses, having reared eight children there.
As I stood there in awe of their achievement in such an unforgiving environment, an English girl bulldozed into their ‘bedroom’ bellowing ‘They ain’t goh now telllllleeee’.
Least of their problems, love.
Unusually, given my hyper-cynical disposition (and considering I was a tourist on a touristy tour) I was genuinely moved by the fact that in the corner of this cave house, an ancient woman was hand-grinding corn with a stone mill, collecting a few Dinar from the browsing tourists.
The old husband just sat quietly across from her, slowly baking in the 38-degree heat in his hole-in-the-ground house and yet they seemed content, nodding and smiling at the curious horde in front of them.
I’ll never complain about my phone reception again.
It helped that our guide – a wizened prune of a man called Eddie with a hilariously crap line in jokes and a genuine affection for this part of Tunisia, where he was originally from – was a real pro, always showing us what to do, where to move, how to deal with the culturally unfamiliar aspects of the tour.
Toward the end of the 1300-kilometre round-trip he did seem to be verging on ‘mentally delicate’ but I’m sure he’s ok now. Ok or still asleep. Or dead.
He even brought bread for the hole-in-the-ground family’s donkey.
We made it back to the resort hotel after two days, drained and fulfilled, set for one more slap-up meal, a little hookah pipe, some Boukha and bed.
The next day was time to fly, just as the week had done.
I should have bought a salamander.